Gardening · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

Gardening: Getting The Tomatoes and Peppers In The Ground

In theory, Mother’s Day Weekend is the typical tomato and pepper planting time in the Pacific Northwest. That depends on the weather, of course, but by then, we have passed the last frost date weeks before.

This year has been special. For being in a “drought,” it’s been cool and rainy this May. Today, as the Memorial Day Weekend starts, it is slated to rain much of the day, and the other day, we got nearly an inch of rain. The plants have liked it, so who am I to complain? Maybe a bit warmer would be nice, but I’ll take the cool weather in the mid to upper 50s for now. Soon enough, the sun will get hot. Honestly, the wind coming up the Salish Sea on our island can do the worst damage; it taxes the plants when that happens. And finally the wind has tapered back.

Years ago, I stopped growing tomato plants under grow lights. I had a couple of reasons why, and the biggest was that when we moved to our homestead here, I did not have electricity to the greenhouse, as I had at our previous place. Then I noticed my plants were stronger and denser and barely needed hardening off time before planting. After that, I didn’t look back. I found that I had to start bell and hot pepper plants from the starts I’d bought, as pepper seeds seem to really need the lights. I was OK with that “cheating”. 11 to 15 pepper plants are plenty for us anyway. On average, I grow about 150 tomato plants and plant around 120 in the ground (or dwarf plants, into large pots).

The other is I quit worrying about when I planted my tomato seeds. When I first started, I was a January seeder. Then, I did a test grow for a known seed company that sent seeds out across the USA to see how they grew. I got those seeds in early April. I planted them, and at the end of summer, those plants were exactly the same size and producing heavily compared to the early seeded ones. Tomatoes didn’t need the early start as peppers did.

So I quit worrying. I started seeding tomatoes in March. In the PNW we don’t have enough light to grow until March, when the sun begins to return, with the spring equinox.

Earlier in the season. As the seeds sprout and start to grow, I pot them up into gallon pots, and let them grow int he unheated greenhouse. The biggest ones go to the left, where they get the most sun. Those will always be the first to be set out to plant.

From big to small.

Peppers growing.

By May, though, at least 50 tomatoes are usually getting too big. The greenhouse can reach 120° on a sunny day in the mid-60s. This leads to plants I must water 2x a day, as the soil dries out quickly.

The first blooms will start happening as well.

And yuck, aphids on one pepper plant. That’s definitely time to kick them out and stop an infestation in the greenhouse.

The peppers and dwarf tomatoes go into 5-gallon buckets and other large pots filled with well-aged compost.

50 tomato plants or so went out of the greenhouse to get fully hardened off. These were the biggest plants.

The bed I am using this year was cut in the summer of 2018, the first growing area I built when we moved here. It has changed over the years in size and how I do rows. This fall we are going to deep till it, remove yet more rocks, then put down a silage tarp. It has a lot of weed issues, being so close to the edge of the woods. It was nothing but weeds after this past winter. I put myself to it, and kept digging weeds. It doesn’t have to be perfect. Tomatoes don’t mind weeds, really.

My idea this year was to suppress the weeds on the edges, using a roll of low-grade yard fabric I had on hand. On that I placed all the pots.

Then I started the first of 3 rows of tomatoes.

I grow field style, using cages. Yes, I could do them under cover, but it isn’t an issue to me. Once summer is here, it will be a thick jungle of tomatoes. I also tend to grow shorter plants as I like smaller tomatoes.

First row mostly done. I found a roll of farm fabric, and cut it in half, forming pathways to walk on. Normally, you’d burn holes in the fabric to put the plants through, to suppress weeds. But I had other ideas. It’s to just get me through these months, so I can fully change the bed.

Second row in, with another walk way.

I then moved out the rest of the tomatoes to let them finish growing/hardening outside. I am slowly planting the third row; as I feel the plants are ready, I put a couple in the ground. The last 30 were last seeded, so will take extra time.

Some of the tomatoes were definitely taxed by getting too big in the greenhouse. They needed a good dose of fertilizer and water (these plants were getting root-bound). This is a real issue if you have to wait 2-3 weeks longer to plant outside because it is still too cold. In the greenhouse, it is summer. All the watering drains them of nutrients.

In the coming week, it is supposed to finally be warmer and sunnier, so the plants will double in size. We are sitting at just over 15½ hours of sunlight, with another hour to gain, before the Summer Solstice in late June.

~Sarah

Gardening · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

The Garden Dilemma: To Use Coco Coir Or Not

A few weeks back, I attended a ladies’ night at a local hardware store. A couple of vendors came out to talk about their products. Even after years of growing and making my own soil, I learned something new. That was highly troubling to me.

Fox Farm products, both soil and fertilizers.

Fox Farm’s rep was a lively man who knew his stuff and was more than willing to talk about soil building.

I asked him about what was in their soils (we avoid certain ingredients that some companies use, so Alistaire won’t have an allergic reaction, as he often fills pots for me and mixes soil blends). Out of this conversation, we talked about the use of coco (coconut) coir, which has become a popular alternative to peat moss. Coco Coir is sustainable as it is a by-product of the coconut industry, whereas peat moss is carved out of the ground and won’t soon be replaced by Mother Nature.

A few years ago, I started using coco coir in my soil mixes, thinking I was making a better choice.

Well….

Coco coir
I am not calling out this company, but rather just an example of the brand our local store carries at $22.99 a brick.

He stopped and told me about the dark side of cococoir if you are not careful about using it. And suddenly, some of my issues in past years made so much sense.

Coco coir can be high in salt. To lower the salt, it must be soaked and rinsed multiple times.

Their company triple washes it before using it in their products, but many brands don’t with the solid bricks. (For example, Fox Farm Bush Doctor mix uses washed coir.)

Coco Coir can be attractive because it is so compressed that 2.5 cubic feet is a tiny brick with a carry handle. It’s easy to shop for and get out of your car.

Thankfully, I had been rinsing it without knowing I was supposed to. To get it to expand, we have a huge stock tank our ducks used to swim in; we toss the brick in and hose it well; slowly, the water soaks in, and you can hack it up with a shovel, adding in more water. Often, I forget about it in late winter and just let the rain soften it. I’ll come out and drain it, then mix it up and later, it gets rained on again. So, this year, I wasn’t having issues with it. But a few years ago, I broke it up and didn’t rinse it, and my seedlings struggled mighty.

I had no idea I was salting my plants. Yikes.

Lesson learned. And I wondered how many other gardeners have no idea how salt-infused coco coir is. The issue is that the coir is processed using salt water because the processing is often done right at the beach, where the seawater is free and plentiful.

It doesn’t mean you should not use it; know you have an extra step (or three steps) to take before using it.

~Sarah

Gardening · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

The Quick Pallet Raised Bed

I first made raised beds out of wooden pallets in 2015, when we were in our first years of urban homesteading. We were living on a lot 1/3 of an acre in size, so I fit in beds where I could amongst the permanent beds I had built. At the time, I had heard about building from pallets (oh so long ago!) and got to work. I needed a quick solution because we had extra tomatoes and peppers to plant.

When you pick up pallets (and it’s very easy to source them for free; ask at locally owned hardware stores and such; they often have them outside to pick up), you will want to look at the side of the pallets to ensure you are using basic ones, without treatments. See here for an easy breakdown.

The good news is that the “bad” pallets (chemically treated) are usually expensive to make/very durable, so the companies often return them for reuse. They are not often left out for free.

The project we started:

Using a sawzall, I cut off the top boards (now we have a pallet wrecker that pops the boards off). I left the center rib in while stacking two pallets to make a deeper bed.

WIth a staple gun I attached yard/garden fabric to the bottom, then the sides. I trimmed the excess fabric.

I flipped it over and attached the fabric on top; it was done. I found a spot between bushes and beds.

It was filled with a light blend of potting mix and compost, and then I planted tomatoes and pepper plants in it.

I used it for about two years before it fell apart. When that happened, I discarded the fabric, tossed the soil in the compost bin, and burned the wood in our fire pit. Not long after, we moved, leaving urban life behind in 2018, and my raised bed idea was long forgotten.

I saw a photo on Facebook posted on a gardening page the other week, and I remembered that bed long ago.

I looked around the property and found a well-used pallet holding a tarp on a compost pile.

With the work I am doing in the fenced berry bed (it’s a vast garden plot), I have lots of room to add raised beds here and there. I don’t want permanent structures, so this worked.

I had a bit of yard fabric left over, so I stapled it onto the wood.

This time, I decided to leave the boards on the pallet for rows.

I filled it up with deeply broken-down compost (it’s four years old) and let it settle.

Then, I seeded it with various vegetable seeds.

We shall see how it works this year in this sunny bed tucked in between 2 blueberry bushes.

Minimal cost, as the fabric was a leftover piece and the soil was paid for long ago. I like it when a quick homesteading project happens easily.

~Sarah

Gardening · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

Gardening: When Your Mind Just Knows

The other day, I was out working on our homestead and went to do greenhouse chores when my mind clicked. I felt a mental push: it was time to start putting bamboo poles in the tomato plants. It was a strong push in my mind. The oldest starts were getting taller, and while supported as a group, if I were to separate the plants, they would start to lean. So, it was time to get them supported!

Yesterday afternoon, Facebook showed me “memories.” One was from last year when I had just started organizing tomato plants and putting in the bamboo poles.

Funny. Our memories will push us without realizing it’s the same day every year!

Last year, how the greenhouse looked. I had a section of larger tomatoes in the same sunny corner as I do this year.

I did note that my most miniature plants were smaller last year than this year (this photo is from the 28th of last year). So this is a better year for growing in some ways. It was colder last spring, so I still had more plants inside (they are outside this year, hardened off).

The biggest tomatoes always seem to migrate to the sunny corner. It’s just how I work; the photos confirm how I operate year in and out. Photo from yesterday.

I didn’t have enough pepper plants; I was unhappy with myself; I only had 13. I’ll be honest; I buy pepper starts. I have far more success with starts than seeds, especially as it buys me a few extra weeks of growing time in our cooler grow zone. So I went today and picked up a couple more red bell pepper plants, which I will pick up later today. I’ll bump up the numbers when I have time. I will grow them in 5-gallon buckets in the greenhouse until June when I will put them out along with the tomatoes. I leave them in the buckets to bring them inside in early September, where they will keep producing until the days get too short in late fall.

There are still many smaller plants, but as the days lengthen, they grow quickly. Soon, they will all need their support. We currently have 90 tomato plants; last year, we had 106. I have around another ten bonus starts to pot up later today (when after potting up a tomato start, I grew from seed, and an extra plant or two pops up.. I carefully transplant them into a gallon pot, and they quickly catch up).

My advice is: when your mind pops and pushes you, listen to it! It’s probably the right time to do what your mind is suggesting.

~Sarah

Gardening · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

Gardening 101: Learn The Basics

When you decide to start gardening, it can be overwhelming. Where does one start? How do you do it? We have many posts that can help you with each question, inspire, and help you learn. Wether you have a single pot on a deck, an urban backyard, or you are living rural with many growing areas.

Updated USDA Grow Zones

Know the average temperatures in your local area. They have changed in some places in recent years.

Make Your Own Seed Starting Mix

It’s far better and more affordable than buying tiny bags of seed starting mix.

Starting Seeds In Pots

Giving your future crops a hand up.

No Garden? Grow Dwarf Plants

It’s the easy way to have fresh veggies and fruit on a patio or deck.

Building A Garden Quickly

You can get a garden on the weekend.

Growing To Eat Versus Growing For Hobby

There is a real difference in how you will go at it, and how much space you need.

How To Buy The Best Seeds

There are so many options it can overwhelm you.

How Much To Plant?

This is one of the questions we get the most often asked. How much does a person need to plant, per person, based on whether or not you are eating for the summer or preserving for winter as well?

The Food Forest

Plant once, eat every year. Grow fruit and berries (and some vegetables) that come back yearly.

Using Reclaimed Logs To Build Beds

We have used this method a couple of times.

Grow Potatoes

Potatoes are one of the few crops that, even if they fail, you can use the failures to restart the growth cycle.

Garbage Can Taters

It’s a simple and effective method.

Building An Herbal Garden

Herbs are great for pollination, medicinal, and culinary.

5 Gallon Bucket Growing

A great method for pepper plants.

Growing Garlic

It’s the crop that flavors so much.

Planning A Fall Garden

In mid-summer, it is time to start planting fall crops.

Saving Seeds

How do you have next year’s seeds for free?

Making Seed Packets

How to create an easy paper envelope. Great for children to do.

Prepping For Early Frosts

If you want to extend your garden season, plan for it beforehand.

The Kinder Garden

Build a garden for your children.

Dealing With Microclimates

How to protect plants when it has a shorter season than a mile away does.

A Year Of Sileage Tarping

How to use sileage tarps to create fields ready to grow in.

~Sarah