Every Garden Needs Strawberries

February 24, 2024 Sarah

If there were one plant that every gardener needs (according to me), it would be strawberry plants. And can you ever have too many plants? I think not.

And to have a diversified stock of varieties: June Bearing, Ever Bearing, and Alpine. Do this, and you won’t be lusting after out-of-season berries grown in Peru.

Plastic-like underripe strawberries for $7.99 a pound are not good eats. In the PNW, strawberries are imported from Peru, Chile, and Mexico in the fall and winter. We finally get California grown by late spring, but they are no better tasting or looking. The berries are all picked unripe and forced to turn red by gassing with ethylene.

Strawberries are something I feel should be enjoyed in season, grown locally. Eat till you are sick of them. Make jam. Dry them. Freeze them. But don’t buy them in the off-season.

Commercial strawberries are filthy and not suitable for us. Both standard and organic strawberry crops are heavily treated with fungicides. Powdery Mildew is highly prevalent on commercial crops. It is due to how the plants are grown; the easy answer is spraying. This is where I go into my tin foil hat farming area, but the rise in oral allergies to strawberries has increased quite a bit in the past decade, as the demand for fresh produce has soared, where consumers expect access to fresh berries 365 days a year.

Do fresh strawberries leave your tongue feeling fuzzy? Thick? Or do your cheeks hurt oddly? Does the throat feel odd? Those are signs of oral allergy. And a big one to stop consuming them. It’s not the berry you are allergic to. It is the treatment you are allergic to.

When I first started growing heritage alpine strawberry plants I had a number of people who approached me that they couldn’t eat strawberries anymore. I’d ask them to try my berries. Every single person who tried them did not react to those berries. For one, they were ripe (oral allergies are often ramped up by eating under-ripe produce), and no treatments were used. Every one of them bought plants to put in their yards.

So the key is here: Don’t use fungicides, and eat ripe berries, and you should overall be good to go.

Growing strawberries is incredibly easy. They don’t require much resources either and do fine with being fertilized once or twice (or never) a year. Even if you forget to water, and it looks like you killed the plants, they nearly always come back. They are durable, adaptable, and keep going. And they produce new plants constantly (remove and share/toss if you don’t want the area to be taken over). The biggest issue is keeping slugs out (I do use Sluggo as a treatment at the end of spring; it kills slugs by telling them they are not hungry rather than as a pesticide). If you have ducks and let them work (supervised), they will eat all the slugs for you.

Once you get past the spring rainy season, it is hands-off, and pick berries as they ripen. You may need to cover them to keep birds out, though we grow many white and yellow varieties, as birds don’t see them as strawberries.

It’s Time To Start Planting and Seeding:

This time of year is when you want to start looking at plant starts or seeds. Alongside bare-root trees and bushes, you will find bare-root strawberry crowns. I am not a huge fan of these; I only get about a 75% survival rate. Instead, if I want to start new June Bearing or Everbearing plants, I buy them in 6 packs at the nurseries. These are ready to go and will produce berries in the first year; you can find them in stores from now on season-wise, hardened off, and ready to plant. I have found that bare root often takes a second year to produce berries.

Or ask friends if they have runners starting to show up and harvest them. Also, you will often see them offered up on local Facebook gardening groups. This is a great way to try new varieties.

If you want to grow Alpine berries, you can source seeds online (see below for an article on how to grow them) or possibly find someone like me who grows and sells the plants in late spring. They can take 14 weeks to germinate, so they take a lot of patience and time in the greenhouse. You should get berries in the second berry-producing time (which starts in mid to late summer, till the first frost in fall) and then will produce two distinct berry crops every year.

I recommend you grow all three types. June Bearing is often big berries. One large wave of berries, perfect for gorging on, then making jam. Then Ever Bearing, which produces a long line of berries, are often smaller berries. You can pick a bowl every morning with enough plants and enjoy them daily. They can produce into early fall. Alpine types produce small but very potently flavored berries. Children love these bush-like plants.

But whatever you choose, don’t wait! Start dreaming about plants dripping in ripe berries.

Articles On Growing Strawberry Plants:

Dehydrated strawberries are easy to do. Wash, air dry, core, and then slice thickly. Dehydrate at 135° till dry (no moisture), then store in mason jars. Shake every month or so to keep them from settling. Enjoy a mouth of delicious food when you snack on them. Notice the little Washington native strawberry growing next to the jar. Those grow in rocky areas all over our land. The chipmunks love them.

If you preserve as much as possible, you won’t want berries in December. Can pie filling, make jam, freeze sliced berries flat on parchment paper lined trays, then bag up for smoothies. Freeze-dry and dehydrate them for snacks. I’ve even made strawberry lemonade concentrate that I canned.

Using Strawberries:

~Sarah

Gardening · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

Make Your Own Seed Starting Mix

February 13, 2024 Sarah

As Winter works its way through, the thought of starting seeds is on our minds. Whether you start seeds inside under grow lights or in a greenhouse with natural light, it’s time to think about the seed-starting soil mix you will use.

Having a light soil mix is essential. You want to avoid a heavy compost mix until the plants are established. Compost is far too rich and can burn the seeds as they sprout. It also can be too heavy, making the growing seed work too hard to push up and through the soil. Start with a light and airy mix. Save the compost-heavy mixes for when potting up tomatoes starts in late spring, and the established plants need to be heavily fed.

Buying commercially made seed starting mix is expensive and typically comes in small bags. If you are only starting a couple of plants, then yes, this will work for you. If an entire greenhouse is packed with seedlings like us, you must make a lot of starter soil.

Seed starting mix can be straightforward, with as few as two ingredients, or you can blend premade potting mix with more lighteners.

Commercial mixes are often peat moss, pumice or vermiculite, and sand. It’s that simple. And those tiny bags are not worth your time. That’s just limiting your growing potential, no?

Vermiculite:

“…. is a hydrous phyllosilicate mineral which undergoes significant expansion when heated.”

As I mentioned above, pumice (which is heavy) or vermiculite was the traditional choice of a lightener; however, something even better exists.

Perlite:

“…..is an amorphous volcanic glass that has a relatively high water content, typically formed by the hydration of obsidian. It occurs naturally and has the unusual property of greatly expanding when heated sufficiently.” Perlite is very light. And unlike vermiculite, it is more extensive and far brighter, so it is visible that it is mixed in well.

A tip? If you need to make a lot of soil up, the stock tanks sold at farm stores work well. Yes, it is a LOT of soil (this stock tank is big enough I could use it as a bath tub). But you’ll use it up if you are growing a lot. They are also very heavy-duty and handle winter well, year after year. I can fit a 2 cubic foot bag of perlite, a 2.2 cubic foot bag of coconut coir, and a 2 cubic foot bag of dry potting soil. Our youngest son happily mixes it up for me; then, I transfer what I need into a small potting tray (such as a concrete mixing tray) to work directly in our greenhouse.

I use perlite and a dry potting soil mix with a bag of coconut coir added for a modern take on it, or I will also do perlite and peat moss or coconut coir as the most simple blend. I find adding the ProMix soil gives a good boost, though. It isn’t heavy. It comes compressed, so it isn’t full of water and stinky. Bonus points always. Overall I keep it at a 1:1 ratio of what I add. So, even if you are making smaller amounts, keep that in mind as you mix it up. You can always bag up your mix, in teash bags, or in a plastic tote, and store it inside for when you need it.

I keep the mix dry until after I have filled pots and seeded. Then I water it, let it soak in, then water it a bit more.

With seed starting mixes, watch the pots to get dry and water gently as needed.

Enjoy is getting ready for spring seeding!

~Sarah

Gardening · Herbalism · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

My Favorite Herbs For Grow Zone 8b

February 6, 2024February 6, 2024 Sarah

On our homestead, we are herb-friendly. In a legal state, that sounds like pro-cannabis, but what I mean is we grow many herb plants. Both medicinal and culinary, nearly all herbs are pollinator-friendly as well. Grow zone 8b allows us to grow both annual (yearly) and perennial (comes back yearly) easily. There aren’t many varieties that won’t grow here, unlike in snowy Idaho, where summer is fleeting. Living low in altitude and near the open water is sometimes a blessing. Being in Grow Zone 8b, we have freezes and snow, but it is fleeting. Our summers tend to be sunny and dry, which leads to a great growing season.

We write quite often about growing, preserving, and using herbs here. And while I love all we grow, I have a core group of herbs I have consistently grown, no matter where I live. I consider these must-grow plants whether you start them from seed or buy them in plant form, ready to put in pots or in the ground, having these growing will improve your growing experience. You will invite pollinators so your produce crops have a higher yield. This will also lead to a healthier local environment by letting the native ones know they are welcome to live on your land. See our recent article on how to grow herbs and start them.

I have noted what I consider to be deer-resistant as well, though, as always, your results may differ. The resistant ones are grown without fencing, and our local deer never seem to munch on them.

Spring is coming, it is time to start planning!

Favorite Herbs For Grow Zone 8b:

Basil:

It is an annual in our grow zone and will collapse and die after the first freeze in late fall to early winter. While prized for culinary uses, the hardy versions are known for their intense flower spikes that pollinators cannot resist. I grow it next to our tomatoes most years. Some people pinch the flowers to get more leaves; I would suggest that you simply grow more plants instead. The flowers smell amazing as well.

Calendula:

Is it a flower or an herb plant first? It depends on what you want really. The flowers are prized for medicinal use, and pollinators love them. I have found it to be deer-resistant. Not known for its aroma, however. It is an annual, but self-seeds efficiently.

Chamomile:

It is grown for the flowers and used in teas and herbal concoctions. Yet, it is also very pollinator-friendly. Once planted it self-seeds easily and usually pops back up every year, randomly across your land. I say sprinkle seeds everywhere and let it grow rebel-style. The smell is heavenly.

Comfrey:

It is prized for its medicinal uses; it produces long stalks of purple-blue flowers that bees cannot stay away from. It is also great fodder for stock animals. One plant will produce enough for an entire family each year. Give it a lot of room, and it loves the sun. Deer do not eat it on our homestead. Comfrey is not edible for humans. It doesn’t need fertilizing and comes back yearly from its deep root system.

Lavender:

There are varieties for culinary and ones aimed at essential oil production. All are highly deer-resistant, have long-lasting flowers, and smell wonderful in the breeze. If there is one plant you put many in the ground, make it lavender. It has many uses, is drought-friendly once established, and takes punishing cold weather. With annual shaping, it will grow for many years without the need for fertilizing and often not even supplemental water once established.

Mint:

You can grow so many varieties: peppermint, spearmint, etc. But be sure to grow them in a pot so they cannot escape and take over your garden. This includes all of its cousins such as Lemon Balm. They can be used in both culinary and medicinal. Deer resistant. Is normally a perennial.

Rosemary:

It is a plant I grow all over our homestead. Deer leave it alone, it is rich in natural essential oils. Used in culinary, medicinal, and yes, oh, those delicate blue-hued flowers will lure native bees in. Deer resistant. Once well established it won’t need fertilizer or watering unless in a heat wave.

Sage:

Let’s just say it: pollinator-friendly. And it smells amazing in the sun. Be it regular sage or tricolor, this herb is cold-hardy and grows for many years with little care. Highly deer resistant.

Thyme:

Regular thyme or a fancier variety like lemon thyme grows for years with minimal upkeep. Cold hardy. Culinary, medicinal, and its tiny flowers are a joy. Deer resistant. Once established, it often does not need watering.

If you are looking for seeds, I recommend Sow Right Seeds, which sell many herb varieties. Use code “SARAHK10” for 10% off! They are also running their annual Early Bird sale through 2/29/24, where if you buy 10 or more packets of seeds, you get 25% off automatically.

Sow Right ships quickly, and yes, we have been growing with their seeds the past year and found success with them. And yes, if you spend $25 or more, shipping is free.

~Sarah

Gardening · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

February Crops To Plant

January 25, 2024 Sarah

It’s nearly February. The call to start growing is so strong, especially if you get warmer days like we are this week (it’s supposed to hit 58° on Sunday!). The lengthening light helps you want to be back outside. I know our warm cycle will go away, and back to chilly, but still, it gets my desire to start planting up.

I don’t plant outside this time of year due to the seasonal rains on our homestead, as we live in grow zone 8b. The seeds just don’t do well. The soil is often waterlogged this month, and can/will still have overnight freezes – or even snowfall for the next 2 months. For seeds and delicate plants, this is often too much for them.

But you can start inside, be it in your home, under grow lights, or in a greenhouse. We use our unheated greenhouse, so yes it does get chilly at night, but I find I get stronger plants. However, I do have a lower germination rate than inside a 67° house. And that is ok to me.

In another month the first hardy starts can go outside (kale, certain lettuces, spinach) and by March I’ll have the first peas outside, weeks ahead of everyone else, so I can get in two spring crops, not just one. For high-density planting, this is essential to have two crops. As you are planting the first crop in the ground, you can start round 2 either inside again, or if warm enough, outside in the ground.

Seeds To Start:

Artichokes, from seed
Asparagus, from seed
Beets (can be sown in the ground early)
Broccoli (start early for spring crops)
Brussel Sprouts (start early for spring crops)
Cabbage (start early for spring crops)
Cauliflower (start early for spring crops)
Celery
Chard
Collards
Herbs
Kale
Kohlrabi
Leeks
Lettuce (hardier like romaine/or winter varieties is best early on)
Onions, from seed (Large sweet onion varieties take so long to grow, early start times can matter in getting a harvest on time)
Peas (bush is best for first planting)
Peppers (They can wait until March)
Radishes (can be seeded in the ground early)
Rhubarb, from seed
Spinach (look for hardier varieties that can handle lower temps)
Strawberry, Alpine (Can take 14 weeks to germinate)
Tomatoes (They can wait until March)

Now is the time to start picking up seeds if you haven’t so far. It’s still early for most stores to have seeds in stock, but online companies are fully stocked with 2024 seeds. You have a couple more weeks to plan for the first planting!

If you use our link to Sow Right Seeds and put in code “SARAHK10” you can save 10% on your order (orders of $25 or more get free shipping as well). They are also running their early deal if you buy 10 or more packets, they give you 25% off. That in itself is a major bargain. Their seed packets are fairly priced, at $2.99 to $3.79 in general. Add in a discount, and you have a great deal. So no matter what you are shopping for seed-wise, you will get a deal at Sow Right Seeds. I just ordered a bunch of their newest varieties (they added a new asparagus and more medicinal herbs!)

~Sarah

Gardening · Herbalism · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

Building Herbal Gardens

January 22, 2024 Sarah

When building a garden, planting herbs is one of the most important things you can do in it. Besides offering immense flavor and medicinal uses, many herbs are pollinator-friendly. If you want a higher production rate of produce in your garden, you must encourage pollinators to visit. Growing herb plants for the flowers is a dual-purpose crop. Add shallow containers of water (pot saucers filled with rocks) under the herb plants will have them coming and staying all day. Encourage wild and domesticated bees, butterflies, and more to visit.

Harvesting fresh lavender is a real treat.

It builds a legacy garden (that often lasts for many years with doing little work).

It also can build a rain-wise garden that only needs a bit of water a year, and often minimal upkeep, such as once-a-year pruning (and harvesting can be the pruning).

You can design your herb garden to be a focal point or in a raised bed or make it the outside of the garden, as a living fence/bed marker. There are so many possibilities.

Homegrown, air-dried herbs tucked away for winter use.

The Herb Garden Planning:

Make a list of what herbs you want/need.
Decide if you will grow from seed this winter or buy starts in spring.
Know what needs to be grown inside or in a greenhouse in your grow zone.
What will be an annual in your zone, and what will come back year after year, as a perennial.
Make a plan, on paper or using an app, to fugre out your design.
Keep yearly notes on what grows well, what dies over winter and what you liked.

There are many varieties to plant, though I tend to break them down into distinct planting types (some are interchangeable of course). It depends on what you want most out of your herbal garden: edible, medicinal, for tea or pretty flowers for the pollinators. And you can have all!

Not all herbs are small either, some are bushes and trees, so planning is essential when planting so it doesn’t take over the area.

If it says to contain, know that plant will spread and potentially take over if not controlled. Anything in the mint family is one to watch. Use pots instead of in ground, and make sure the drainage hole has a saucer under it, so roots can’t go wandering through it, into the ground.

Culinary Herbs:

Basil (sweet)
Bay (is a tree)
Catnip
Chilies (not quite an herb, it’s a pepper, for the seeds)
Chives
Coriander/Cilantro
Garlic
Ginger
Lavender
Lemon balm
Lemongrass
Lovage
Marjoram
Oregano
Parsley
Rosemary
Sage
Thyme
Oregano
Dill
Savory
Stevia
Tarragon

Pollinator Flower Herbs:

Basil (all types)
Bee Balm
Bergamot
Borage
Chamomile
Calendula
Catnip
Chives
Comfrey
Echinacea
Helichrysum
Lavender
Marjoram
Marshmallow
Sage

Tea Herbs:

Bee Balm
Catnip
Chamomile
Elderberry (a tree)
Ginger
Horehound
Lavender
Lemon Verbena
Marshmallow (needs wetter soil)
Mint (all types)
Pineapple Sage
Wild roses, for rosehips and leaves
Rosemary
Sage
Stevia
Stinging Nettles

Medicinal Herbs:

Aloe (indoors in most areas)
Basil (hardy types)
Bee Balm
Chamomile
Calendula
Comfrey (must be contained)
Dandelion (the roots) (must be contained/dead-headed promptly to avoid seeds)
Dill
Echinacea
Feverfew
Helichrysum
Horehound
Ginger
Lavender
Lemon Balm (must be contained)
Marshmallow (needs wetter soil)
Mint (all types) (needs water and must be contained)
Oregano
Patchouli
Wild roses, such as Nooksack and Sitka
Red Dock
Rosemary
Sage
Stevia
Stinging Nettles (must be contained)
Thyme
White Sage (Hard to grow from seed, plants are best)

~Sarah

If you are seeking seeds, I highly suggest Sow Right Seeds (Use code “SARAHK10” for 10% off) They carry many herb seeds, and offer bundles of seeds aimed at both culinary, tea and medicinal herb gardens.