Gardening · Recipes

Pasta Primavera From The Garden

As Spring nears, my mind wanders to last summer’s gardens on the farm. Mid summer brings on the tiredness from working (and the watering!) so it’s a mix of days where dinner is very simple (and late), to where I am inspired by the produce we are harvesting every day. The heat wave this week has the zucchini in overdrive, and the first tomatoes are ripening. Pasta Primavera doesn’t need Parmesan cheese to taste wonderful. A rustic, simple meal can be gourmet, when the vegetables are the star.

Pasta Primavera

Ingredients:

  • 5 carrots, peeled, halved and cut into thin strips
  • 2 medium zucchini, ends trimmed, halved and cut into thin strips
  • 2 medium yellow zucchini*, ends trimmed, halved and cut into thin strips
  • 1 sweet onion, trimmed, peeled, halved and cut into thin strips
  • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil or cold pressed avocado oil
  • 1 Tbsp fresh rosemary, roughly chopped
  • 1 Tbsp fresh sage, roughly chopped
  • Fine sea salt
  • Ground black pepper
  • 15 ripe cherry tomatoes, halved (quartered if large)
  • 1 pound smaller pasta shape (bow tie, rotini)

Directions:

Preheat oven to 450°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, mix carrots, both zucchini, onion, oil and fresh herbs. Sprinkle a pinch of salt and pepper on. Divide the vegetables between 2 rimmed baking sheets, and spread out. Roast for 10 minutes, stir or shake trays. Continue roasting for another 10 to 15 minutes, until tender and turning golden.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add in pasta, cook for time on package. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, drain.

Add pasta back to the pot, gently toss with the roasted vegetables. Add in the tomatoes and serve.

Serves 6.

Note: *For best taste use yellow zucchini, not yellow summer crookneck squash. There is a real taste difference, but also texture. Unless you love crookneck, then whom am I to say no?

Gardening · Homesteading

Letting Random Weeds Grow

I have a few “weeds” I let grow unchecked. For some reason they just don’t bother me, and why not? They co-exist nicely with the plants growing. Maybe a bit of a relaxed attitude, and if they also attract pollinators, so much the better!

The first is Blood Sorrel – I saw it growing in an established bed the first summer here, 4 summers ago. It had not done well until I planted grapes and blueberries near it. Now it gets water, and shows up in late summer. This year it has bloomed amazingly in the heat.

Purslane…it’s a plant that keeps showing up in farmers markets. Apparently it came in via compost.

Chamomile. It spreads on the wind. It’ll grow in beds, lawns and even cracks in pavement. The smell is wonderful when you walk on it, or brush against it.

And this purple one is Linaria purpurea.

Gardening · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

A Season In The Tomato Bed

Tomato season starts early, long before most are even dreaming a ripe juicy slice. In the cold and short months of January and February, the little plants grow in the greenhouse, tucked away from the cold snaps and harsh winds. It gives one hope though, when they open the door into the greenhouse.

February 6th:

It’s snowy, and so quiet. But inside the heater kicks on and the grow lights pop on as needed.

February 19th:

On balmier and dry days, is when the weeds are managed and cleaning is done.

March 10th:

The seedlings popping up.

March 21st:

They grow quickly.

April 9th:

It starts warming up, so more weeds show up. More work to be done.

April 14th:

The transplanting done up to gallon pots.

April 28th:

The last bit of April I can barely move in the greenhouse.

April 29th:

The main bed is fertilized, and ready to plant.

First plants in.

May 9th:

We also had a huge multi-farm plant sale around that time. Right after this a hail storm came through, thankfully all went well.

May 29th:

The first surge.

June 15th:

Growing, and doing well.

July 7th:

The summer surge.

July 31st:

First harvesting was happening.

September 14th:

At the tail end of harvest, the tomatoes know when to turn off.

September 18th:

And hail makes its first appearance for the coming Fall.

Early October:

And once again, it returns to empty. Fall is here and the land is quieting down.

Gardening · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

An Edible Landscape For Children

When Kirk and I first moved to our first home in Maple Valley, one of the things that drew us out here (in the early 2000’s) was close proximity to the mountains and hiking. It wasn’t farming I can tell you! Our oldest son and I were out hiking 2 to 3 times a week, often on backpacking trips. It wasn’t until we had more children after 2010 that I started gardening again. With little ones I couldn’t get away like I had in the past, so I found my old love of growing things. I was outside, and it felt rewarding to work in the soil.

When we had bought that house, it was heavily landscaped and I proceeded to ignore it for the first 6 years of living there. When we started culling out plants, to make the yard children friendly, I realized quickly nothing in it was an edible landscape. More so, much of it was poisonous for children and animals (this is shocking for many to find out those innocent looking landscaping plants are not safe). Rhodies were ripped out, Holly pulled and many, many bulbs were dug out (over repeat years I might add). We also pulled out a pond, as we felt it wasn’t safe with toddlers.

The last few years in the house we had a little oasis for the kids to play in – and nibble if they pleased.

Does one need a lot of land to do this? Not at all. Even in an apartment, with a tiny deck, one can have plants for the children. The smallest lot with only front landscaping, it is easy to hide blueberry bushes in the landscaping and quietly replace those plants that produce nothing. Intertwine in strawberry plants. In the backyard, add in a few plants with golden raspberries (they don’t need to have support, and grow vertical).

This was literally the start of what we do now. By putting out plants, I learned so much. At first, I only used the corner, along the fence.

Our little property wasn’t big, but we made it work. We dug up part of the small yard. The boys could wander through it, as it grew.

Walker loved in his 3rd and 4th years to wander around, looking for tasty treats. Kale wasn’t one of them he found out 😉

And maybe find a tiny and tender summer squash –

When we sold the house and moved to our current location, it was pleasing to know we could walk into a near clean slate, and begin again. The first year here we removed all contractor special trees (most of which were very unhealthy due to the poor soil). With that done, we removed ornamental shrubs and other items. Thankfully, for the size of our property the previous owners were not inspired, and hadn’t overly planted.

Even in the first year we started dropping in blueberry and evergreen huckleberry bushes, and golden and red raspberry canes. By the second year, the gardens went in, and the fruit trees.

When you add in areas, make a spot just for children. Walker, our middle son, has planted a blueberry bush in his, with strawberry plants. It is decorated with a little fence, landscaping rocks and garden gnomes/gnome village. He tends to it and it is his only, he will tell you! Alistaire, our youngest, tends to his carrots, in a separate bed.

Because everything is edible, I don’t worry about them roving in the yard. They know they can eat whatever they pick. This coming Spring we will have been here 4 years, and it is rewarding to know we have built this.

~Sarah

Gardening · Homesteading

March Garden Tasks and Seed Planting (For Zones 7-8 PNW)

The zone we use for our homestead is 7, rather than what the zone chart claims is 8b. In a previous post I talked about my decision to follow a colder zone here in Maple Valley, Wa. I find that we have cold/wet longer into early spring than other zone 8’s have. The foothills of the Cascade Mountains and Mount Rainier help play into the weather as well. And it gives me more time, in case a heavy rain or late freeze comes. February 2018 went from warm to an Arctic freeze, which is typical weather. March will have longer hours of light (we just cracked 11 hours of daylight in this past week), and the temperatures should slowly get warmer, but will still freeze at night on clear days.

Garden Tasks:

  • Prune rose bushes.
  • Get bare root plants in the ground, such as fruit trees and roses.
  • Plant flower bulbs.
  • Weed beds.
  • Clean out birdhouses, bird baths and bird feeders.
  • Feed existing fruit trees.
  • Turn compost piles.

Seeds To Plant:

To see more on when to seed, and transplant, see here.

Below are seeds you can start in March and or are ready to transplant, which are either colder-weather crops, or need a longer start time. The dates are not set in stone, it is a guide of what week may be most preferable to get them started. With a cold/wet spring, waiting a week or two more before seeding is smart.

Needless to say, the start of March is a good time to have seeds on hand, potting soil and small pots – and a sunny window, greenhouse or grow light system on hand. And if you start them later? It’s OK for many crops. And for temperamental ones like broccoli, you always can grow those as a fall crop, where they often fare better than in spring, if you miss the window, or late winter is too warm/cold.

Artichokes:

Start inside first week of March.

Beets:

Direct seed outdoors March 22nd

Sow every 2 weeks direct seed, till summer heat comes.

Cabbage:

Indoors February 7th

Transplant March 18th

Carrots:

Direct seed March 25th to first week April.

Sow every 2 weeks direct seed.

Cauliflower:

Indoors February 8th and on.

Transplant March 15th and on.

Chard:

Start inside in early March.

Collards:

Indoors February 11th

Transplant March 18th

Eggplant: 

Indoors March 1st

Direct seed/Transplant May 1st

Herbs:

Indoors mid February to early March.

Transplant late April to mid May.

Plants should be hardened off before setting out in the outdoors, especially Basil.

Kale:

Direct Seed March 15th

Sow every 2 weeks direct seed. Plant by August 1st for fall crops.

Kohlrabi:

Direct Seed March 15th

Sow every 2 weeks direct seed. Plant by August 1st for fall crops.

Lettuce:

Direct seed March 30th

Sow indoors 2 weeks, till summer heat comes. Resume seeding end of July to plant fall crops through mid August.

Onions, from seed:

Green onions can be seeded every few weeks for a continuous crop.

Transplant middle to end of March for first crop.

Onion Sets:

Transplant March 1st and on.

Peas:

Direct seed February 18th to March 8th.

Direct seed August 1st for fall crops.

Sow every 2 weeks direct seed, till summer heat comes. Bush takes less time than tall climbing varieties.

Peppers:

Indoor February 18th to March 22nd

Transplant May 1st to May 10th

Do not direct seed, both hot and bell peppers have a long growing season. For longer growing varieties, start earlier.

Potatoes:

Transplant March 22nd

Transplant July 5th for fall crops

Seed potatoes need about a week of time before planting to be prepped.

Radishes:

Direct seed March 15th

Direct seed August 1st and 15th

Sow every 2 weeks direct seed, till summer heat comes.

Spinach:

Direct seed March 7th

Sow every 2 weeks direct seed, till summer heat comes.

Tomatoes:

Start seeds first week of March and on.

Turnips:

Direct seed March 15th

Sow every 2 weeks direct seed, through mid-August.