Gardening · Homesteading · Prepping

Growing To Eat Versus Growing For Hobby

One of the things I do yearly is test my boundaries. The boundaries of growing plants. To see what can I push to the edge, and still work.

But to explain it, not that many years ago we were urban homesteaders, living off the luxury of having our mini-farmstead right out the back door, with the greenhouse was just a few steps off the back deck. The luxury of having electricity, and even water, right where we needed it. Life was linear, I happily grew our plants under grow lights, snuggled in with a toasty heater running to stave off the cold chills. We grew food as a hobby, even when we started our first urban farm there. Because it was a hobby, I wasn’t watching how much it was costing us. And to be honest, I was following conventional wisdom about gardening. “Do this and you will get good results”.

Where we live now, we had none of the infrastructure in place when we moved in, in spring of 2018. 4 springs later we have some of that in place. We have water. We have irrigation in much of it. But electricity? We could do it, but it’s just not that important in the grand scheme of things. For now, growing to eat became far more important.

I realized in the first year of living on the island my goals would have to change. And they did. I took everything that was “set in stone” about our grow zone and tossed it out. And came of the mantra of “Either you survive, or you don’t” because…in the wilds, mother nature would do that to us humans. I was moving 600 feet of hose back and forth daily to just keep the plants growing. It was not sustainable, year in and out.

One of the first things I truly noticed after we moved back to the island was plant sellers on the island. They kept them in greenhouses, under lights, fully heated for a very long time. They were showy, of course, but was it a good thing? For were we teaching ourselves to grow as a hobby, or for survival? A summer garden will feed you, but it won’t let you survive if you needed. We need dense plants, shorter, but built for handling late chilly nights. Plants that don’t need pampering to survive. Living in the north means you must work around the lack of light in winter and early spring. It means you must wait. You will have time. But you must have patience.

This may well change how you grow in a microclimate as well.

Plant your seeds far later then you see others doing it. It’s OK. You are not in a race with them. You might see on Facebook or other social media that one person, who has a huge greenhouse full of plants, that are huge. In March. Or April. It only means they started their seeds inside, under grow lights, and with a mat heater under them…in January.

But here is the thing:

They cannot plant those plants outside.

They would die quickly. Being pampered they are delicate. The leaves would be sapped within a night or two, and the plant would die. It has no hardening off. It lives in a gilded cage of fake light and warmth.

And that’s totally OK if they want to grow for show, as a hobby. That’s their thing.

For us, (mostly me) I had to step back and not seed in January. Nor February. Only in mid March did I do the first things.

And then there are “the years”:

This spring has been brutal for patience. It’s cold. It is rainy. And it has barely let up. We many weeks behind. Our goal is growing to eat, so we must wait till the time is right enough – that we won’t waste seeds or time to see the crops fail, over and over.

It is May 29th and it was 48* last night. It is continuing to be this cold many nights. It just won’t stay about 50* at night. And worse, it keeps raining (which is good for the long term, I won’t argue that, but it is frustrating none the less). It is sunny at times but holding in the 50’s many days. Even in the low 60’s the plants cannot surge. They need a full day’s worth of sun. Not clouded over till the afternoon. Or worse? All day long. Grey stretches on, for months now.

I have my views on this. I feel it is happening because of Tonga’s volcanic explosion in January, and it recently waking up yet again this past week. Tonga is easy to ignore, for it sits in the middle of nowhere, far away. It is near Fiji and American Soma. It reminds me of the winter after Mt. St. Helens blew when I was a child. It was a cold summer and just never felt right. Say what you will about global warming, all it takes is 1 very large volcanic explosion to set all that back. The thing is, our spring and summers have become hotter this past decade, and spring happens earlier every year. But this year? It is far, far different. All the local growers (both farmers and gardeners) I know see it…but the media is pretty much silent on it. Does it not fit their narrative of global warming crisis? Cold wet springs don’t help the narrative of an eternal drought, and withering hot temperatures (which last summer were horrible around the 4th of July).

This is a year where growing for hobby will not happen for many in the Pacific Northwest. They will give up as their seeds don’t come up, or if they do, they are scraggly and barely making. Their tomatoes will not thrive for now. If summer comes, it may change, but the crops will be smaller, and we will run into the issue of blight in September with the rains, and the crops won’t be ready to pull.

This is the year to ask: 

Am I growing to eat, or as a hobby?

If it is to eat…..you need to get serious about covering your crops to ensure more warmth. Be it hoop tunnels, greenhouses or wrapping fences in plastic wrap to block winds. This is the year we must work on it.

Today I am wrapping 2 fenced beds with 6 mil plastic (for painting) to push the temperatures up in the beds. I want to eat. Hobbies don’t feed you full time.

~Sarah

Gardening · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

5 Gallon Bucket Growing

With our cold and wet spring (and seriously…we had a wind storm last night into this morning that was winter like) I have been looking for options for peppers and some tomatoes to be able to grow protected, and to hopefully increase the crop production numbers. Bell peppers do grow here on Whidbey Island, Wa, but they run small and are typically thin walled if grown outside. They try, but let’s be brutal….it’s not warm enough with the constant winds. The winds at night chill the plants, even in the hottest days of July and August.

While I got plenty last year, you can see how small they were. And last year was a hot summer. Picking them, this was the common size.

I want more hand sized ones! This one was in an interior row so it stayed warmer.

Last week on a rare sunny (but still cool) day, with my brother’s help I pulled out all the tomatoes and pepper plants out of the greenhouse.

Did number counts and got them staked up (tomatoes are like a forest, where they all stand happy till you start moving them, then they flop).

I pulled out most of the peppers (though I sold a few to customers I like….) and got working on prepping a new home for them, for the season. Once all done, everyone got back into the sauna to warm back up. They prefer the greenhouse.

The peppers have been in the greenhouse from day 1. They were in 1 gallon pots the past month plus, and already starting to put on flowers.

I do not heat our greenhouse (it sits in one of the fields) and we don’t use grow lights. We prefer growing resilient plants that can handle the local land. Dense, stout and green.

You can use most any container to grow in, as long as it is 5 gallons or bigger. Use 5 gallon buckets, cat litter buckets, or even ones from restaurants and bakeries. As long as it didn’t hold car oil or chemicals, it is usually fine. Use a drill and the largest drill bit you have on hand to punch 5 to 6 holes in the bottom. Fill with well aged compost (we mix ours with coconut noir – similar to peat moss – to control water). Plant up and walk away.

We put our buckets about half way under the benches in the greenhouse, leaving a walk way.

Now we let them do their thing and grow in the warmth of the greenhouse.

And hidden is the first tiny bell pepper.

I am hoping this latest experiment goes well this season.

~Sarah

Gardening · Homesteading

Whidbey Island Gardening: The Cool Spring

It’s been a cool spring this year. And a wet one, depending on which end of Whidbey Island you live on. We live outside of Freeland, in the Olympic Rainshadow, so we get far less than say Oak Harbor in the far north, or Langley, farther south (it gets quite a bit more as it isn’t in the shadow).

I have been asked multiple times this week “Am I too late to start a garden?”.

No. You are not too late. Even in a normal year this is just the start of the season for planting outside. Take one cool spring, and we are about 2 weeks late. I’m behind in some ways on my land, but I am not worried. Because when I look at the weather predictions…we have time.

Depressing? Pretty much.

And it’s the same for the 3rd and 4th of May as well! In the 50’s daytime, some days in the low 50’s and then in the lower 40’s at night. The ground is still quite chilly.

You have time. Get your plans together, work when it’s not raining. But breathe. The sun will return. It won’t be long.

~Sarah

Gardening · Homesteading · Prepping

The Emergency Garden

It’s the end of March, and the news is filled with doom and gloom every day. Maybe you have never grown food before, and suddenly feel the need to do it. Or you have, but not recently.

Gardening can help control anxiety from news of inflation and food shortages by giving you something beneficial to do, get exercise and receive fresh air/sun.

The Emergency Garden is a simple thing: To get food growing as quickly as possible, that will give you nutrients and calories. Without deep planning. You can do longterm planning while the emergency garden is starting to grow. It’s two fold. Build for now, and build for the future. Gain skills and grow confidence that you can take more on. As the emergency garden flourishes, you can be working behind the scenes, building more space and learning to grow trickier seeds, but having food to eat while you do it.

To Start:

Figure out where you can start growing. If you have a yard, raised beds made quickly work fastest. If you only have a deck, pots will work. Ask before buying if anyone has things they don’t need – be it cinderblocks for beds, or used pots. Often people have things they want gone, and gone for free. In the emergency garden, we don’t have time to till land to make in ground beds. Save that for part 2.

Go buy potting/garden soil and compost immediately. This is where you need to spend money – your soil will determine your success. A mix of garden soil, potting soil and compost will provide a nice base in raised beds. For pots use potting soil to avoid heavy soil. If you can afford organic, choose that.

Buy organic fertilizer to have on hand. You don’t have time to wait for your compost pile to cook down. That is for part 2. While the first vegetables grow, start a compost pile if you don’t have one already.

Buy seeds Immediately. This is no time for the fancy seeds. You want easy to grow, short grow season seeds. Preferably F1 hybrids, that are designed for where you live. In the PNW, Ed Hume seeds are the best choice for this. Read the packet of seeds carefully and look at each variety and compare how many days it takes to grow. Always choose the shortest.

Growing heirloom/heritage/open pollinated seeds you can save seed from, that is for part 2. Buy both types, grow the fastest first, then plant the heirlooms.

As with shorter grow times, consider size as well. Grow smaller carrots, beets, pickling cucumbers over slicing cucumbers. Bush peas and beans over pole ones. Look for dwarf varieties.

Normally I would say “grow the rainbow” when it comes to colors, but in the emergency garden, stick to lighter colors, they will take less time on average. Green peas versus deep purple ones. White, yellow or red versus blue-purple tomatoes. Orange carrots versus those gorgeous dark as night ones in the seed catalog. Stick with small potatoes such as white, red, or Yukon Gold, instead of Russet baking potatoes.

Also see: Building a Garden Quickly.

What To Grow:

  • Lettuces (Many lettuce types can be cut multiple times, and let regrown, before the heat zaps them till early fall crops)
  • Greens (Arugula, kale, spinach, bok choy, swiss chard, mustard greens)
  • Peas (grow bush style for quickest) (can eat pea shoots, then the peas)
  • Beets (both the greens and the bulbs are edible)
  • Radishes
  • Evergreen Onions (Scallions, Green Onions, Spring Onions) (They can be cut and regrown multiple times)
  • Carrots (grow smaller varieties and avoid the deeply colored ones as they take longer) (Carrot greens are edible and make a great pesto)
  • Garlic (can be planted in early spring for a late summer harvest, it will be smaller but delicious none the less, grow hard neck for garlic scapes)
  • Mushrooms
  • Herbs (Grow in pots, they can be snipped as needed and air dried in summer) (Parsley, Basil, Chamomile, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme and such)
  • Potatoes (Can be grown in buckets, pots and be harvested as new potatoes or let grow all season. Can plant multiple crops a year)
  • Turnips (Not a sexy root, but they last a long time and are great in soup or mashed up like potatoes, greens are edible)
  • Summer Squash (grow it up a trellis, or hog panels, to save space)
  • Tomato (grow smaller, bush tomato plants that produce smaller fruit)
  • Beans (bush green beans)

Wondering how much to grow per person? See here for that post.

Right Now Starts Are In Stores and more are showing up in the coming weeks:

  • Cabbage
  • Broccoli
  • Cauliflower
  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Lettuces
  • Kale
  • Spinach
  • Peas
  • Onions
  • Tomatoes (usually in April)

Bring home the starts, plant the onions, spinach, and peas. The greens and brassicas, pot them up into 4″ pots and let grow a bit more before planting. Tomatoes should be potted up and protected in at least an unheated greenhouse or pop up shelter/or sunny window until at least May 1st. I plant tomatoes in ground around Mother’s Day weekend.

Buying starts can cost a little more, but give you a head start while you get seeds going. It also builds confidence as they grow.

And to that….may your garden grow and bless you!

~Sarah

Gardening · Homeschooling

March Crops To Plant

As the month of March clips by fast, much of the country is approaching Spring this coming week, Sunday, March 20th this year. The daytime temperatures are warming up for those of us in the Pacific Northwest in the valleys and on the islands in the Salish Sea, we are a month to the last frost date (April 15th) which means it is go time for many items to be seeded for their first seeding outside.

These are crops that like it chillier, especially the greens, they tend to wilt or bolt to seed when it gets over 70° extended. The crisp and juicy greens, the tender spring peas, and such.

A tip? For peas, plant bush peas for a quicker crop. And this is also a good frame for all crops, grow smaller carrots for a quicker harvest. Read the expected dates on the back of the seed packet, choose the variety with the lowest days required.

What To Go Plant:

  • Beets (seeds)
  • Bok Choy (seeds or starts)
  • Broccoli (starts are being sold now)
  • Cabbage (starts are being sold now)
  • Carrots (seeds)
  • Lettuce (seed or starts)
  • Onions (the starts sold at nurseries)
  • Peas (seeds)
  • Potatoes
  • Radishes (seeds)
  • Spinach (seeds)

~Sarah