Make Your Own Seed Starting Mix

February 13, 2024 Sarah

As Winter works its way through, the thought of starting seeds is on our minds. Whether you start seeds inside under grow lights or in a greenhouse with natural light, it’s time to think about the seed-starting soil mix you will use.

Having a light soil mix is essential. You want to avoid a heavy compost mix until the plants are established. Compost is far too rich and can burn the seeds as they sprout. It also can be too heavy, making the growing seed work too hard to push up and through the soil. Start with a light and airy mix. Save the compost-heavy mixes for when potting up tomatoes starts in late spring, and the established plants need to be heavily fed.

Buying commercially made seed starting mix is expensive and typically comes in small bags. If you are only starting a couple of plants, then yes, this will work for you. If an entire greenhouse is packed with seedlings like us, you must make a lot of starter soil.

Seed starting mix can be straightforward, with as few as two ingredients, or you can blend premade potting mix with more lighteners.

Commercial mixes are often peat moss, pumice or vermiculite, and sand. It’s that simple. And those tiny bags are not worth your time. That’s just limiting your growing potential, no?

Vermiculite:

“…. is a hydrous phyllosilicate mineral which undergoes significant expansion when heated.”

As I mentioned above, pumice (which is heavy) or vermiculite was the traditional choice of a lightener; however, something even better exists.

Perlite:

“…..is an amorphous volcanic glass that has a relatively high water content, typically formed by the hydration of obsidian. It occurs naturally and has the unusual property of greatly expanding when heated sufficiently.” Perlite is very light. And unlike vermiculite, it is more extensive and far brighter, so it is visible that it is mixed in well.

A tip? If you need to make a lot of soil up, the stock tanks sold at farm stores work well. Yes, it is a LOT of soil (this stock tank is big enough I could use it as a bath tub). But you’ll use it up if you are growing a lot. They are also very heavy-duty and handle winter well, year after year. I can fit a 2 cubic foot bag of perlite, a 2.2 cubic foot bag of coconut coir, and a 2 cubic foot bag of dry potting soil. Our youngest son happily mixes it up for me; then, I transfer what I need into a small potting tray (such as a concrete mixing tray) to work directly in our greenhouse.

I use perlite and a dry potting soil mix with a bag of coconut coir added for a modern take on it, or I will also do perlite and peat moss or coconut coir as the most simple blend. I find adding the ProMix soil gives a good boost, though. It isn’t heavy. It comes compressed, so it isn’t full of water and stinky. Bonus points always. Overall I keep it at a 1:1 ratio of what I add. So, even if you are making smaller amounts, keep that in mind as you mix it up. You can always bag up your mix, in teash bags, or in a plastic tote, and store it inside for when you need it.

I keep the mix dry until after I have filled pots and seeded. Then I water it, let it soak in, then water it a bit more.

With seed starting mixes, watch the pots to get dry and water gently as needed.

Enjoy is getting ready for spring seeding!

~Sarah

Homesteading · Prepping · Preserving · Recipes

Freeze-Drying Onions

February 7, 2024 Sarah

We grew a lot of onions on our homestead this past year. We specialize in “Whidbey Sweets,” as we call our Walla Walla Onions. They don’t grow as big here on the island as they do in their namesake of Walla Walla, WA, but it’s also a lot cooler here than in blazing-hot Eastern Washington. These are not great “storage onions”, so this past year I worked on processing them into long-term storage by freeze-drying many of them. I found we were not always eating all of them before they’d spoil, even when cured. And that is an awful waste to have happened!

And this leads to something that is often claimed. Something even I have been guilty of – that you shouldn’t preserve food that is cheaper just to buy pre-done. Well…….OK, I get it. Onions, even sweet onions, can be had for $1 a pound or less in summer. And dried onions are rather cheap commercially (it’s a couple of dollars for a jar of dehydrated ones).

But if you grew them yourself…well, the flavor is off the charts. And fresh onions often don’t cause uncontrollable crying while you cut them—especially the sweet types. I’d cry once, clean my face with cold water and be fine. And get back to cutting them up.

Hand-sized onions.

So this past summer I harvested our onions, cleaned them up and cut them into half moons.

I froze them flat on cookie sheets (lined with parchment paper to make removal easier). Then I bagged them up into gallon freezer bags until I had five bags worth.

You will notice a pronounced smell in your freezer for a few hours until they are bagged up. Especially if you are buying commercially grown onions, and they are “storage” ones that have sat well cured in the cold for 6 months to a year. Fresh dissipates a lot faster. Keep this in mind in case you have delicate items such as ice cream in it.

I transferred the frozen onions to the freeze-dryer trays and popped them in for the cycle, which is automatic. We didn’t have to add any extra time for this cycle. Onions dry quickly and evenly I felt.

The onions will be light and crispy, snapping easily when dried. Sweet onions like this can be eaten raw right out of the machine.

I cut them into big pieces, but they are easily broken by hand into smaller pieces for adding to meals.

Once fully dry, remove and bag up immediately, adding an oxygen absorber packet in each bag or mason jar. We also added a desiccant packet to each container. Seal fully.

Mark what is in the bag and what day you did it on.

I used a combination of glass mason jars and mylar bags to store them in for both at-home cooking and for future trail meals.

And yes, the taste and texture were well worth the time, even if possibly it would have been cheaper just to buy them ready to use.

I did a tray of purple onions a friend grew so she could have long-term onions as well. She used her “ugly” scraps from when she was pickling red onions. No waste that way!

I ran another batch when I did this, with more sweet onions I had, her purples, lean diced ham (2 trays), and a yellow split pea soup—keeping the flavor profiles similar.

There was no noticeable smell left behind in the freeze-dryer after the batches. That had been a concern of mine.

These last two runs were a worthy cycle of our freeze-dryer.

Want To See More On What We Have Freeze-dried?

Check out all our posts.

Harvest Right is running a Valentine’s Day Sale with up to $500 off on their freeze-dryers.

~Sarah

Gardening · Herbalism · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

My Favorite Herbs For Grow Zone 8b

February 6, 2024February 6, 2024 Sarah

On our homestead, we are herb-friendly. In a legal state, that sounds like pro-cannabis, but what I mean is we grow many herb plants. Both medicinal and culinary, nearly all herbs are pollinator-friendly as well. Grow zone 8b allows us to grow both annual (yearly) and perennial (comes back yearly) easily. There aren’t many varieties that won’t grow here, unlike in snowy Idaho, where summer is fleeting. Living low in altitude and near the open water is sometimes a blessing. Being in Grow Zone 8b, we have freezes and snow, but it is fleeting. Our summers tend to be sunny and dry, which leads to a great growing season.

We write quite often about growing, preserving, and using herbs here. And while I love all we grow, I have a core group of herbs I have consistently grown, no matter where I live. I consider these must-grow plants whether you start them from seed or buy them in plant form, ready to put in pots or in the ground, having these growing will improve your growing experience. You will invite pollinators so your produce crops have a higher yield. This will also lead to a healthier local environment by letting the native ones know they are welcome to live on your land. See our recent article on how to grow herbs and start them.

I have noted what I consider to be deer-resistant as well, though, as always, your results may differ. The resistant ones are grown without fencing, and our local deer never seem to munch on them.

Spring is coming, it is time to start planning!

Favorite Herbs For Grow Zone 8b:

Basil:

It is an annual in our grow zone and will collapse and die after the first freeze in late fall to early winter. While prized for culinary uses, the hardy versions are known for their intense flower spikes that pollinators cannot resist. I grow it next to our tomatoes most years. Some people pinch the flowers to get more leaves; I would suggest that you simply grow more plants instead. The flowers smell amazing as well.

Calendula:

Is it a flower or an herb plant first? It depends on what you want really. The flowers are prized for medicinal use, and pollinators love them. I have found it to be deer-resistant. Not known for its aroma, however. It is an annual, but self-seeds efficiently.

Chamomile:

It is grown for the flowers and used in teas and herbal concoctions. Yet, it is also very pollinator-friendly. Once planted it self-seeds easily and usually pops back up every year, randomly across your land. I say sprinkle seeds everywhere and let it grow rebel-style. The smell is heavenly.

Comfrey:

It is prized for its medicinal uses; it produces long stalks of purple-blue flowers that bees cannot stay away from. It is also great fodder for stock animals. One plant will produce enough for an entire family each year. Give it a lot of room, and it loves the sun. Deer do not eat it on our homestead. Comfrey is not edible for humans. It doesn’t need fertilizing and comes back yearly from its deep root system.

Lavender:

There are varieties for culinary and ones aimed at essential oil production. All are highly deer-resistant, have long-lasting flowers, and smell wonderful in the breeze. If there is one plant you put many in the ground, make it lavender. It has many uses, is drought-friendly once established, and takes punishing cold weather. With annual shaping, it will grow for many years without the need for fertilizing and often not even supplemental water once established.

Mint:

You can grow so many varieties: peppermint, spearmint, etc. But be sure to grow them in a pot so they cannot escape and take over your garden. This includes all of its cousins such as Lemon Balm. They can be used in both culinary and medicinal. Deer resistant. Is normally a perennial.

Rosemary:

It is a plant I grow all over our homestead. Deer leave it alone, it is rich in natural essential oils. Used in culinary, medicinal, and yes, oh, those delicate blue-hued flowers will lure native bees in. Deer resistant. Once well established it won’t need fertilizer or watering unless in a heat wave.

Sage:

Let’s just say it: pollinator-friendly. And it smells amazing in the sun. Be it regular sage or tricolor, this herb is cold-hardy and grows for many years with little care. Highly deer resistant.

Thyme:

Regular thyme or a fancier variety like lemon thyme grows for years with minimal upkeep. Cold hardy. Culinary, medicinal, and its tiny flowers are a joy. Deer resistant. Once established, it often does not need watering.

If you are looking for seeds, I recommend Sow Right Seeds, which sell many herb varieties. Use code “SARAHK10” for 10% off! They are also running their annual Early Bird sale through 2/29/24, where if you buy 10 or more packets of seeds, you get 25% off automatically.

Sow Right ships quickly, and yes, we have been growing with their seeds the past year and found success with them. And yes, if you spend $25 or more, shipping is free.

~Sarah

Gardening · Homesteading · Urban Homesteading

February Crops To Plant

January 25, 2024 Sarah

It’s nearly February. The call to start growing is so strong, especially if you get warmer days like we are this week (it’s supposed to hit 58° on Sunday!). The lengthening light helps you want to be back outside. I know our warm cycle will go away, and back to chilly, but still, it gets my desire to start planting up.

I don’t plant outside this time of year due to the seasonal rains on our homestead, as we live in grow zone 8b. The seeds just don’t do well. The soil is often waterlogged this month, and can/will still have overnight freezes – or even snowfall for the next 2 months. For seeds and delicate plants, this is often too much for them.

But you can start inside, be it in your home, under grow lights, or in a greenhouse. We use our unheated greenhouse, so yes it does get chilly at night, but I find I get stronger plants. However, I do have a lower germination rate than inside a 67° house. And that is ok to me.

In another month the first hardy starts can go outside (kale, certain lettuces, spinach) and by March I’ll have the first peas outside, weeks ahead of everyone else, so I can get in two spring crops, not just one. For high-density planting, this is essential to have two crops. As you are planting the first crop in the ground, you can start round 2 either inside again, or if warm enough, outside in the ground.

Seeds To Start:

Artichokes, from seed
Asparagus, from seed
Beets (can be sown in the ground early)
Broccoli (start early for spring crops)
Brussel Sprouts (start early for spring crops)
Cabbage (start early for spring crops)
Cauliflower (start early for spring crops)
Celery
Chard
Collards
Herbs
Kale
Kohlrabi
Leeks
Lettuce (hardier like romaine/or winter varieties is best early on)
Onions, from seed (Large sweet onion varieties take so long to grow, early start times can matter in getting a harvest on time)
Peas (bush is best for first planting)
Peppers (They can wait until March)
Radishes (can be seeded in the ground early)
Rhubarb, from seed
Spinach (look for hardier varieties that can handle lower temps)
Strawberry, Alpine (Can take 14 weeks to germinate)
Tomatoes (They can wait until March)

Now is the time to start picking up seeds if you haven’t so far. It’s still early for most stores to have seeds in stock, but online companies are fully stocked with 2024 seeds. You have a couple more weeks to plan for the first planting!

If you use our link to Sow Right Seeds and put in code “SARAHK10” you can save 10% on your order (orders of $25 or more get free shipping as well). They are also running their early deal if you buy 10 or more packets, they give you 25% off. That in itself is a major bargain. Their seed packets are fairly priced, at $2.99 to $3.79 in general. Add in a discount, and you have a great deal. So no matter what you are shopping for seed-wise, you will get a deal at Sow Right Seeds. I just ordered a bunch of their newest varieties (they added a new asparagus and more medicinal herbs!)

~Sarah

Recipes

Focaccia Bread – In Less Than an Hour – A Family Favorite

January 23, 2024January 28, 2024 Sarah

Craving fluffy focaccia bread, ready to eat in under an hour? So many recipes for focaccia take 8 hours in the refrigerator, then 4 hours to rise. Far too much time. When all you want is a piece of light, airy bread quickly! No mental prep, and thinking ahead is needed.

This recipe came to fruition due to a grocery store experience. The boys and I were shopping at the store. They saw a display of focaccia bread that while smelling great, was baked off-site and was who knows how many days old. I picked it up and it was so dry under all the packaging that the bread weighed almost nothing. Add in that it was packed on a styrofoam tray and plastic wrap, which was very wasteful, especially for a “green” grocery store. I told them, “We can make it home so much better.” So, we did.

This recipe is why I keep both kinds of yeast on hand. Regular active dry yeast is for bread-making, and rapid-rise yeast is for quick breads. Keep them in the refrigerator for freshness, tightly sealed.

Bread recipes like this focaccia drive home why cast iron pans are such winners in the kitchen. It was so off-putting to me the other week when we went to Florida on vacation. Where we stayed had a well-equipped kitchen but like most American kitchens, it was nothing but slick Chinese-made non-stick pots and pans. I am so not used to them now (we only cook on US-made cast iron and stainless steel now) that I felt like the food was not getting cooked properly. And I was freaked out about the potential of fumes (and more so that while it was a high-end brand, the stove was electric…ack).

After a quick rise, I spread the very heavenly-scented oil over the dough.

Then dimpled the dough and popped it in to bake.

The aroma alone could snag a woman a husband. Just saying. Or have obedient children for a hot minute who really want it.

The Recipe for Effortless One-Hour Focaccia Bread

Ingredients:

¾ cup warm water (90 to 120°)
½ tsp granulated sugar
2 tsp rapid-rise yeast (about 1 packet)
1¾ cups all-purpose flour
½ tsp fine sea salt
4 Tbsp olive oil, divided
1 Tbsp parmesan cheese (any kind will work)
1 tsp granulated garlic
1 tsp dried rosemary, finely crumbled (1 Tbsp fresh, finely chopped)

Directions:

In a small bowl add 2 Tablespoons olive oil, parmesan cheese, garlic, and rosemary. Stir well and set aside.

Preheat oven to 200°. Add 1 Tablespoon of olive oil to a cast iron skillet, 8″ size.

In a stand mixer bowl add the water, sugar, and yeast. Let sit for 5 minutes to start foaming.

Add in the flour, salt, and 1 Tablespoon of olive oil.

Beat with a dough hook in, till the dough pulls away from the bowl. If needed, add a small amount of extra flour if too wet to ball up.

Dust your fingers with flour and remove the dough. Add to the cast iron skillet and gently pat out to fill the pan.

Turn off the oven. Place the pan in the oven for 20 minutes for the bread to rise.

Take it out of the oven. Turn oven back on to 400°.

Meanwhile, spread the oil on the dough gently, covering it all. Then press your fingers in to make dimples.

Bake bread for 20 minutes. Take out and let sit for 5 minutes, run a thin metal spatula under it, and transfer it to a cooling rack.

Makes one loaf, or 8 wedges.

~Sarah